Naxos - Picturesque & Peaceful

Naxos is a Greek island situated in the Aegean Ocean and is the largest island in the Cyclades island group, alongside the more popular islands of Mykonos and Paros.

As I lay on my lounger looking out to the ocean, I can see across the island of Paros, the island where I spent my honeymoon, just over 6 years ago. Both islands are similar, with soft sandy beaches, intricate labyrinths of alleyways you can lose yourself in while buying souvenirs and Greek-style floaty dresses. The pavements have the same painted stonework, and stunning deep-pink bougainvillaea cascades down the walls, providing the ultimate Greek picture postcard look.

Chora

The main town on Naxos is Chora, renowned for its Temple of Apollo arch that can be found on every postcard and every fridge magnet in the shops, not to mention all the social media posts about Naxos. The town has a pretty harbour full of fishing boats and yachts to charter, and it is strewn with tavernas and bars along the waterfront. It is also the main port and the point of arrival for most visitors. 

In the daytime, Chora is a great place to wander around the shops or stop in one of the many cafes for lunch. The ancient alleyways of the Old Market Town wind up towards the castle, which is hidden somewhere in the middle. As far as I know, you can’t get inside the castle, but there did appear to be some renovations going on, so that may change in the future.

There are plenty of shops selling the usual souvenirs, lovely floaty summer dresses and t-shirts, plus lots of artisan craft shops and jewellery stores for that little something different. However, I do advise that if you see something you like, buy it, as you can wander around and around again without finding the same shop if you decide to go back for it later.

As I mentioned earlier, the main attraction in Chora is the Temple of Apollo, perched high on a hill across a rocky walkway. You’ll find a steady stream of sightseers making their way across the causeway to the bottom of the steps that take you up and around the temple in a loop. Other than the arch, there is very little else to see, other than a few fallen stones and the fantastic views back towards Chora town, so it won’t take you long. We walked across during a spate of Naxian winds, so it was a bit blowy out there on the causeway, and we had to dodge some surging waves as they crashed up and over the side of the rocks, but it was fun despite the occasional drenching, which dried pretty quickly in the warm breeze.

In the evening, the town comes alive as the thousands of holidaymakers make their way from the beaches and the hotel pools and stream into town. Luckily, there are enough places to eat and drink for everyone. With many restaurants along the harbour front and countless down the back streets and alleyways, with pretty little tables and chairs and buzzing waiting staff. The difficulty is choosing which one to eat in.

We ate at Apostolis but only just managed to get a table. Just after we arrived, the queues started to form and many of the tables were already booked. I can see why, though. The food was delicious and the waiters were very pleasant and efficient. You even get a small espresso-sized cup full of a chicken broth thing that tasted like a soup-like gravy. I don’t know what it was, but it was yummy!

As the sun sets, visitors again flock to the Temple of Apollo for the perfect Instagram shot (me included, although my photography skills are not that great). Unfortunately, the original constructors of the Temple built the arch slightly out of kilter to the setting sun, and so the perfect through-the-arch-sunset-shot eluded us, but it is still very much worth a visit. The lone violinist and the panpipe man playing Strawberry Fair, helped to make it quite an ethereal experience.

Beaches

Agios Prokopios

The beach closest to our hotel was Agios Prokopios, named as one of the best beaches in Greece (and one of the reasons I chose this location). This beach is a long strip of sand where the aquamarine blue of the Aegean gently laps the shore. Across the water to the horizon, we can see the mountains of Paros as they majestically rise from the water, dotted with white-washed villages at their base. The water here is shallow and warmer than in many places we’ve been to before, which makes it perfect for families. There are no jet skis, banana boats or booze cruises, just the odd lilo or rubber ring, which makes it the perfect place to relax.

I am actually writing these few short notes from the comfort of my sunlounger on this very beach. FYI, two sunbeds and an umbrella cost €25, so make the most of your day. We left our loungers for lunch and visited one of the many cafes across the road from the beach, although many areas of the beach offer a waiter/delivery service direct to your lounger, so you don’t even have to move..

Agios Georgios

Agios Georgios is the closest beach to the main town of Chora. We discovered it on our walk back from Chora to where we were staying in Stelida, on our first day on the island. Although we didn’t sunbathe on the beach, we did stop in one of the many, many, many beach bars that are located just behind. Some of them, you can’t tell where the bar ends and the beach begins. Again, this beach is a long and sandy horseshoe, and similar in size to Aghios Prokopias.

At one end of the beach, jutting out into the sea, is an abandoned hotel/restaurant. Now reduced to the bare bones, most of which is covered in graffiti, the place would have had quite the most amazing view from its panoramic windows. It is worth a wander round, and not only does it have wonderful views but a fabulously eerie feel about it, at least I thought so. We spent most of our time in the beach bar planning on how we would renovate it, much like Gabrielle’s Old Kafenion, in my book A Place in Greece. Like author, like heroine.

Agios Anna

We stopped at Agios Anna beach on one of the days that we were out on the bike. It is a much quieter beach than Agios Prokopis and Agios Georgios, but just as pleasant. 
As we were only there for a short while, we just laid out our towels on the beach rather than hiring sunbeds and enjoyed a cooling dip after our dusty bike ride. We then had to try out one of the beach bars for an afternoon beer, for research purposes.

If you prefer to let it all hang out, the local nudist beach is just around the corner. We accidentally stumbled across it (honestly!), as we walked up to view the little chapel that sits just above the beach. We were actually walking back from our lunch stop at Taverna Paradiso, which is also very worth visiting. They have tables and chairs right on the white sandy beach, and the Naxian salads we ordered were massive!

All the beaches we visited had a nice, relaxed atmosphere without pumpy-pumpy dance music blaring out.

Out & About

We hired a 200cc moped from Nikos Bike Rentals in Agios Prokopis. It cost €120 for four days. It wasn’t the best moped we’ve ever rented and was soon affectionately knicknamed the 'Shitped' by my husband, who had the joy of driving it. It did, however, manage to get us up into the mountains of Naxos and, more importantly, it got us back down again.

So armed with the Shitped, a free map from Nikos and some pre-trip internet research by yours truly, we headed out into the wilds. Here are a few of the places we visited.

Kouros of Naxos

Our first adventure out was to see the Kouros (not to be confused with churros, the Spanish doughnut things you dip in chocolate). These are large unfinished marble statues that, for various speculative reasons, have been left somewhere halfway up (or down) a mountain. We visited the Kouros at Melanes, where there are two to see. One is relatively close to the parking area, and the other is a bit of a trek up a hill. They are definitely worth going to see and are free to visit.

There is a third Kouros right at the top peak of Naxos, but we gave that a miss due to the duration of time it would take to get there.

Temple of Apollo

As previously mentioned, this is situated at the far end of Chora town. There is not much to see other than the famous arch, but it is a pleasant stroll along the causeway and a not-too-strenuous climb up. This is also free and has several information boards scattered around.

Temple of Dimitri/Temple of Sangri

Another trip out on the Shitped took us to the Temple of Dimitri.

The Satnav (and indeed Greek signposts), directed us to the centre of Sangri village and the start of what we could only assume was some sort of hiking trail, which seemed a little odd. However, not to be deterred, we set off in earnest across the Greek countryside, only to discover that what seemed like a couple of dirt tracks towards the temple was in fact a fenced-off dead end. We could see the temple high on a hill in the distance, but had no way of reaching it. We therefore trundled all the way back along the way we had come. Basically, if you see a sign like this, avoid it all costs. If there isn’t a proper car park, you’re in the wrong place.

We eventually reset the satnav and ended up in a car park at the base of the temple. Much more accessible. By now we were hot, bothered and thirsty and I ‘sponged’ (as the hubster calls it) a couple of bottles of water from a very kind coach driver. I did offer to pay, but he refused my Euros and took pity on us. Thank you, Mr Coach Driver, Greek hospitality at its best.

The temple itself (when we finally got there) sits on the top of a hill, as so many temples do. It is a bit of a climb, but there are proper paths, and it wasn’t too busy when we went, so we managed to get some nice, uncrowded photographs of the temple. There are several information boards in Greek and English to give you an overview of what it’s all about.

There’s not a huge amount to see, but there is a small museum displaying artefacts that were found there. The whole place was €5 to enter, so I would say it was worth it. There was a WC, but surprisingly for these places, no cafe or concession stand, so take some water with you - or nab it from a local coach driver.

Villages

While we were out and about on the Shitped, we drove through many picturesque villages. I love seeing these places where the real Greeks live. Here are a couple that we stopped at for a look around.

Halki/Chalki/Halkio

The first place we stopped at was Halki, which is very quaint but very busy. We arrived at lunchtime, so it was probably our own fault, and many of the little cafes and tavernas were filling up. We did find a spot in one of them for a coffee, and it was very pleasant. The hubster took a gamble on a slice of local cake, which he says was the nicest thing he’d ever tasted. I can't remember what the waitress said it was called, but with retrospective research, we think it was Galaktoboureko (you see now why I didn't remember it). It came with a dollop of cinnamon ice cream, so if you are offered a slice, do go ahead and treat yourself. It’s a pleasure to walk around the little village and explore some of the local artisan shops therein.

Filoti 

We then moved on to the next village of Filoti, which is a couple of miles away. Apparently, there is a nice walking trail if you are so inclined. I imagine it's a nice walk, assuming there are no dead ends. We decided to stop in Filoti for lunch and chose a lovely family-run restaurant, who use local produce. This was located on the main road through the village, so we could be nosy and watch all the comings and goings.

Again, like Halki, it is worth exploring, and we took a side alleyway towards the Folklore Museum. This took us up some steps, and we were rewarded with a gorgeous church and blooms of cascading bougainvillaea in all its splendid pinkness. You actually walk through a cafe converted from an old cinema, which is complete with colourful chairs, and is really quite charming. Had we seen that first, we may have stopped there.

Egars/Eggars/Engares

The name of this village is spelt in various ways, even on the signposts leading up to it. It was only about a 20-minute drive from our hotel, so we popped over on the Shitped for lunch, as a break from a very strenuous day by the pool.

We didn’t wander around the village as our particular destination was the Eggares Olive Oil Museum. This is a teeny-tiny one-room museum set in a picturesque building where they offer free guided tours (donations are welcome).

They also ply you with free tasting of olive oils, tapenades and as many olives as you can eat.

We stopped for lunch in the pleasant courtyard, and selected a Naxian cheese platter and olive bread, which was accompanied by free tapenades, chutneys and olives. It was all washed down with a glass of fresh homemade lemonade. If you are a fan of the olive and have an hour or so to spare, I highly recommend this place. The women there are also lovely and friendly, and they helped to make it a most memorable experience.

Travelling Around

Hiring Bikes, Cars & Quads

We hired a bike (the Shitped) from Nikos Bike Rentals, although there were also various places hiring quad bikes and cars. The roads aren’t great, but if you keep your wits about you, the island is pretty easy to get around. Just pick up a local map and head for the sea. If in doubt, head for Chora, which is signposted around most of the island. All roads lead to Chora.

Bus

There is a bus service in Naxos, and we caught the bus from Agios Prokopios to Chora. There are others covering the rest of the island, the timetables of which you can find online before you go. If you arrive on the island by ferry, it’s a good way of getting to your destination as they start from the port.

Tickets cannot be bought on the bus and must be purchased from a supermarket or at the bus depot beforehand. We bought ours from a supermarket in Agios Prokopis, which had a sign outside saying they sold tickets. Our tickets cost €2.30 each way.

The bus we returned on had no announcement of stops. It just stopped in dark places in the middle of nowhere, and we had to take a gamble as to whether it was our stop or not. (Obviously, in the daylight, this is much easier to navigate.) It was also packed with people, so it wasn't easy to manoeuvre down the aisle. As a result, we got off at the wrong stop and had to walk along the road to where we actually wanted to be. Although we only had to walk a little further than we thought, I can’t help but think that if I were on my own by the side of the road in the pitch black in a strange country, it might not be that safe. This may just have been the bus we were on.

Taxis

There are plenty of taxis if you need to hire one. Most now take payment by card, but if you ask, many still prefer cash.

Getting To Naxos

There are two ways to reach Naxos. The most popular way is by ferry, either from one of the nearby islands, such as Mykonos, or direct from Athens. The ferry from Athens is approximately 4 hours and departs from Piraeus port. The port is over an hour from Athens airport, so you need to plan your timings.

There is a very small airport on Naxos which accommodates local flights from Athens. This takes 40 minutes. We calculated the cost difference of travelling by ferry or aeroplane and weighed it up with the time taken and the convenience. You’ll have to do your own research on this based on the time of day that you travel and the money you are willing to spend. We chose the flight to save on time, and it meant we didn’t have to leave Athens airport. On the return journey, we flew to Athens and spent a couple of days in the city before flying home.

Naxos airport is tiny (and a little bit chaotic on the return flight), but it was only 5 minutes away from our hotel, so we grabbed a taxi and were in our room within an hour of leaving Athens.

Where to Stay

There are hundreds of hotels to choose from, depending on the location you want to be in and how much money you want to spend.

We stayed at the Mediterranean Hotel in Stelida. This was a pretty sugarcube-style hotel with blue doors and shutters (my ideal Greek hotel), which is a 15-minute walk to Agios Prokopios (5 minute drive) and just over an hour walk to Chora (20 minute drive). The Mediterranean Hotel is perched halfway up a mountain, which does make it quite a climb to get up there, but the view from the room was spectacular. We could see the whole of Naxos plus two sides of the Aegean, and we could even see the Temple of Apollo in Chora while sitting on our balcony. It was a lovely hotel with friendly staff and great views from the infinity pool. I would highly recommend it if you don’t mind a bit of an uphill climb! If I were going to stay in Naxos again, I would probably look at staying in the St Georgios beach area which is an easy walking distance to Chora, and I could catch a bus to Agios Prokopios.

My attempt at a panorama from our balcony!

Places to Eat

Too many great places to mention (and I can’t remember most of their names). In our week in Naxos, we never had a bad meal, whether it was a quick chicken gyros or a full-blown dinner; they all have similar menus, just take your pick.

If you fancy a nightcap under the stars (or under the sun), check out the Kaluha bar in Agios Prokopios beach. They have bean bags on the beach where you can relax with your favourite tipple. Very nice.

My conclusion of Naxos

If you like gorgeous sandy beaches with laid-back vibes, Naxos is the island for you. It’s similar to its neighbours, Mykonos and Paros, but much quieter. Throw in a couple of quaint, picturesque villages and places of historical interest to visit, and you’ve got everything you need. Shopping opportunities are plentiful, if that’s your bag, and there are enough cafes and restaurants to eat somewhere different every day of the year. We found the people on Naxos were also very friendly and nothing was too much trouble. It is a bit of a faff to get there and takes some planning with local flights and/or ferries, but that's the beauty of it, this is not the place for package tours.

If you want to see more pictures and videos of Naxos, follow me on my Instagram page - ameliashort_writer.

We booked the Mediterranean Hotel through booking.com

We flew to Athens from Bristol by Easyjet

We flew from Athens to Naxos by Sky Express (the other airline to Naxos is Olympic). This was booked through eDreams.

I have no affiliation with any of the companies mentioned in this post. All information was correct to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting

If you love Greece and like reading books about it, you might like my 'A Place in Greece' book series, available on Amazon.

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